Re-naturalizing sugar: Narratives of place, production and consumption

Abstract

This article analyses the inter-relationships among food consumption practices, marketers' representations of sugar, and the history and political economy of sugar production. It focuses on the 'supermarket narratives'--stories regarding place and production that appear on commodity packaging--used to market sugar in the USA. It explores how competition within the sweetener industry, as shaped by the material qualities of sweeteners, has given rise to supermarket narratives that seek to differentiate sugars on the basis of ideas of place, freshness and environmental sustainability. It also examines how, at the same time, sweetener users have co-operated to maintain and increase consumption in the USA. The article begins with a discussion of historical patterns of sweetener consumption in the USA, and then looks at the genesis of the primary sugar industry lobbying organization. The case study of Florida sugar producers is used to demonstrate the historical antecedents of supermarket narratives and the contemporary geographical specificity of the political economy underlying supermarket narratives.